Pedra do Sal

Pedra do Sal (Salt Rock) is a large rock in the Saúde neighborhood, in the Port Zone, about 100 meters from Largo da Prainha. Steps carved into the rock itself climb from Largo João da Baiana up to Morro da Conceição. Heritage-listed by Inepac on November 20, 1984, it is considered the symbolic heart of Little Africa, according to Wikipedia.

From salt to samba

The name comes from the colonial port: salt arriving by ship was unloaded there by enslaved workers and carried to the area’s warehouses. From the 19th century, Saúde received many Black migrants from Bahia, who brought religious houses (terreiros), festivals and music.

In this setting grew names linked to the origins of carioca samba, such as Donga, João da Baiana, Pixinguinha and Heitor dos Prazeres, who gathered in the area, according to Wikipedia. One of the central figures was Hilária Batista de Almeida from Bahia, known as Tia Ciata, whose house brought together musicians and parties.

The quilombola community

Pedra do Sal is also home to the Pedra do Sal Quilombo Remnant Community, certified as an urban quilombo (a community descended from people who resisted slavery) by the Palmares Cultural Foundation in 2005, according to Wikipedia. Remember that it is a residential neighborhood: move around respectfully.

The samba circle

Today the rock is the stage for open-air samba circles (rodas de samba), held mainly on Mondays and Fridays, according to Wikipedia. The circle takes place in the street, at the foot of the steps, with the audience gathered around the musicians.

Getting there

Pedra do Sal is in Saúde, near Praça Mauá. By day, you can combine it with Valongo Wharf, the Rio Art Museum and the Olympic Boulevard. The VLT Carioca light rail serves the Port Zone: see the lines in getting around Rio.

For other music nights, see samba and nightlife in Lapa.